Saturday, October 24, 2009

Brown Butter Gelato (Not just a great idea!)

Ben & Jerry would be proud.

Thickening into a custard consistency.

Ideal way to strain right into the storage container.

This is not the ice-cream machine from my home.

Beautiful, smooth, velvety Brown Butter Gelato.

Brown Butter is my favorite ingredient right now. I tend to do this, I'll have one distinct favorite which I will explore as much of until the flare dies down and I move on. Past recipients of my attention; Olive Oil, Maldon Salt, Pumpkin Seeds, Truffle, you'll always have a place in my heart... ....especially truffle...
Anyways, anyone who has made brown butter knows that it's great because of the sweet nutty smell.
I wanted to do a gelato with it because we tend to have Apple Tart Tatin as a special dessert and I thought the two would pair perfectly. I consulted Pastry Chef Vanessa Fiorini, and together we worked out the final product. I am taking slightly more credit here then I should... credit for spotting talent?...
The trick is to balance the enormous amount of fat from the brown butter with the milk and cream. Too much fat will feel funny on the palate, too little will make for choppy churning.
Brown Butter Gelato
Yield: 4lt.
28 Egg Yolks
500gr. Brown Sugar
400gr. White Sugar
2lt. Whole Milk
400ml. 35% Cream
350ml. Brown Butter
Pinch of Salt
1) Whip the eggs with the sugar (This will make for a smoother churned Gelato), slowly temper the butter into this mixture.
2) As you are whipping the eggs (whip it good!) scald the milk, cream, and salt together.
3) Temper the cream mixture into the eggs, return everything back on the stove top and thicken like you would Creme Anglaise (Nappy consistency)
4) Strain custard through cheesecloth and cover directly on the surface with cling-film for 24 hours in the fridge.
5) Next day churn at will! The amount of time you churn depends on the machine it's self. Mine at home takes 20 minutes. The one at work takes 8. Let rest in the freezer at least 2 hours before sneaking back with a tablespoon.

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